Learn more in the article on how to remove a freewheel cassette. With the freewheel removed you have clear access to the bearings on the drive-side. In my case I replaced all the ball bearings in the rear wheel and could have done it for the front wheel as well. And the wheel was missing a bearing on both sides as it turned out they need 9 per side. Put it on both the threaded part of the hub and the inside of the freewheel cassette.
You can use the freewheel remover to tighten the freewheel cassette even further. If you like this article give it a thumbs up. If you have any questions or suggestions for new articles, let me know in the comments below. If you like this article please share it.
If you have any questions or suggestions for new articles, let me know in the Facebook Group. To remove sprockets from a freewheel for replacement or restoration, you normally use two chain whips: one to unscrew the sprocket, the other to prevent the freewheel from rotating backwards. This is easiest with the freewheel installed on the wheel. Or you can use a special freewheel vise in place of the second chain whip.
Remove the freewheel from the wheel to use the freewheel vise. Freewheel vise. The photo is for illustration only. The freewheel vise must be clamped in a bench vise in use and when separating two sprockets of nearly the same size, place the smaller one underneath, for less interference with the chain whip. Older European freewheels mostly used all threaded sprockets. Because of the low gearing provided by the larger sprockets, they would usually be screwed on very, very tight, and could require a considerable amount of effort to unscrew.
The smaller sprockets would screw on from the outside, using normal right threading. If you don't have a chain whip, or if you are trying to remove a particularly stubborn threaded sprocket, you can substitute a short length of chain held in a vise. A length of chain and a bench vise also can clamp a sprocket. In practice, you usually did not have to remove all of the sprockets at the same time, because you needed a sprocket to hold the freewheel in place while you unscrewed the one you wanted to remove.
There were special vises that gripped the threads to let you take off the last sprocket, but I never found the need to use one. Another way to remove all of the sprockets is to tighten the two largest ones against each other, loosen the remaining smaller sprocket and then unscrew the largest sprockets from each other. British Cyclo freewheels were different -- all the sprockets screwed on from the left except the smallest -- and quickest wearing -- one! This sprocket was integral with the freewheel body and could not be removed.
Mechanics who didn't know this have broken teeth off this sprocket trying to remove it. But that's ancient history and you will probably never see a British Cyclo freewheel! Newer freewheels use splined sprockets: you need only unscrew one or two outer sprockets, and then the others slip off.
Shimano Hyperglide freewheels use all splined sprockets, with a threaded lockring similar to the system used on Hyperglide cassette hubs.
Keep track of the spacers between the sprockets, to maintain correct sprocket spacing when you reassemble the freewheel. When reassembling the sprockets to the freewheel body, grease the threads to prevent corrosion and make removal easier the next time.
Many sprockets are asymmetrical. The high side of the teeth of SunTour sprockets faces to the right. The ramps for chain pickup on newer sprockets also face to the right. If installed backwards, these sprockets will shift very poorly. Some older sprockets are symmetrical, so you can extend their life by turning them over.
With older freewheels, there were commonly 2 or 3 different thread sizes on the same freewheel, so sprockets made for one position wouldn't necessarily fit on another position. Threaded sprockets also had built-in spacers, so they could only be installed in one direction. Standard spaced 6-speeds required increasing the frame spacing to mm, aggravating the problems introduced with the move to 5-speed, but still providing satisfactory service in most cases.
As it turned out, the increased length of un-supported axle sticking out from the right side of the hub was just too long for traditional 10 mm threaded axles. As a result, 8-speed freewheels eventually pretty much disappeared from the market.
As the number of sprockets has continued to increase to 9 and beyond, thread-on freewheels have become obsolete for high-end applications. Do you need to replace an older, threaded rear hub to update to a modern, index-shifting drivetrain? Not unless you insist on having more rear sprockets than you probably need. It's nice spec hype to advertise 9, 10, 11 speeds at the rear, but you can get a wide range and narrow steps with 6 or 7 sprockets and compact double see example or triple chainwheels.
Modern 5-and 6-speed freewheels have a 5. You may need to adjust the cable routing slightly with an 8-speed shifter. An index shifter's extra clicks will be blocked by the limit stop on the derailer. This is a nice, even progression, or you may choose another -- see list of available freewheels from Harris Cyclery. Modern freewheels have the same easy-shifting features as cassettes. Unless you are willing to put up with friction shifting, you need to install new shifters.
Indexing handlebar-end shifters , top-mount shifters or downtube shift levers let you know how to shift by feel. Brake-lever shifters return to the same position after every shift, so you don't know what gear you are using. They also tend to be expensive. Brazed-on bosses for downtube shifters on some older frames will not fit today's index shift levers or cable stops , so you will need to use a clamp-on adapter. A 5-speed freewheel or Suntour Ultra-6 will work with the mm rear dropout spacing that was usual in the s.
A 7-speed freewheel needs at least mm spacing, but only steel frames are likely to have narrower spacing, and they can usually be cold set to spread the dropouts. You also may need to redish the rear wheel-- see article on frame spacing. To convert to a cassette, you would have to replace the rear wheel. When the cogs are removed, the ratcheting freehub remains on the hub body. Most modern bicycles use the freehub system. See a typical cassette hub below. Older bikes may have a large external thread machined into the hub.
The ratcheting mechanism comes off with the cogs when the freewheel unthreads for removal. This article will review the removal and installation of freewheel systems. For cassette systems, see Cassette Removal and Installation. You will need to determine the style or brand of freewheel you have. There are older model freewheels where the tool is no longer available. An old Shimano standard has 12 splines of approximately 20mm.
There is an older French Maillard freewheel with 24 splines with an approximate diameter of 31mm. Park Tool does not make tools for these freewheel systems. It may still be possible reuse the wheel but it will require destroying the freewheel. There are also current models of freewheels that do not have an adequate design for removal. In the image below, the freewheel has two very narrow and shallow notches that do not allow enough purchase for a tool.
Strong, tough, and durable, this freewheel remover is designed to last. Add to Compare Add to Wishlist. Brand New Good Quality. Convenient Delivery. Professional Services. Additional information Reviews 0 Additional information Weight 0. Reviews There are no reviews yet.
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